In the picturesque region of IXTENCO, nestled amidst the awe-inspiring slopes of the Malinche volcano, a timeless tradition unfolds with the break of dawn. Juan Vargas, a weathered yet resolute resident, commences his daily routine, one that has been etched into his very being since childhood.
With unwavering dedication, he meticulously inspects the stalks of vibrant, native corn that have been lovingly cultivated for generations.
These exquisite heirloom varieties, boasting a kaleidoscope of hues ranging from deep crimson to delicate blush, from radiant gold to enigmatic indigo, represent a cherished legacy passed down by his forebears.
However, for many years, Vargas has been plagued by a gnawing concern, a fear that these treasured corn strains, so intrinsically intertwined with his family’s history, would gradually fade into oblivion.
The relentless dominance of white corn in the market has cast a shadow over the rich tapestry of Mexico’s culinary landscape, threatening to erode the very essence of its people’s sustenance.
In the serene and picturesque region of IXTENCO, nestled harmoniously amidst the awe-inspiring slopes of the majestic Malinche volcano, a timeless and sacred tradition unfolds with the break of each new dawn.
Juan Vargas, a weathered yet resolute resident of this enchanting land, commences his daily routine, one that has been etched into his very being since the tender days of his childhood.
With unwavering dedication and a profound sense of responsibility, he meticulously inspects the robust and resilient stalks of vibrant, native corn that have been lovingly cultivated and nurtured for countless generations.
These exquisite and storied heirloom varieties, boasting a kaleidoscope of hues ranging from deep crimson to delicate blush, from radiant gold to enigmatic indigo, represent not only a cherished legacy passed down by his revered forebears but also a testament to the indomitable spirit and unwavering resilience of his people.
However, for many years, Vargas has been plagued by a gnawing concern, a fear that these treasured and invaluable corn strains, so intrinsically intertwined with his family’s history and the very fabric of their existence, would gradually fade into the vast abyss of oblivion.
The relentless and pervasive dominance of white corn in the market has cast a somber and foreboding shadow over the rich tapestry of Mexico’s vibrant and diverse culinary landscape, threatening to erode the very essence of its people’s sustenance and cultural identity.
Corn holds a paramount position in Mexican cuisine, serving as its most fundamental ingredient and remaining a constant topic of national discourse.
The recent actions taken by President Andrés Manuel López Obrador, including the prohibition of genetically modified corn imports and the enforcement of a 50% tariff on imported white corn, have sparked a lively debate.
In response, a coalition of scientists, chefs, and other advocates has emerged, championing the value of traditional corn varieties in a world grappling with escalating drought conditions.
Despite their significance, heirloom corn varieties currently constitute less than 1% of Mexico’s total domestic corn production.
However, a glimmer of hope has emerged, as individuals like Vargas, a farmer, and others express optimism about the future of this crop.
Within academic and public spheres, there is a growing desire to bolster the production of heirloom corn.
Vargas, for instance, has observed that his heirloom corn fetches approximately $1.17 per kilogram in foreign markets, more than triple the price of his white corn.
Encouraged by the increasing demand, he plans to expand his cultivation. With pride, he showcases his vibrant “little corn” that traverses the globe, emphasizing how international recognition has validated their efforts.
In conclusion, the status of corn in Mexican culture remains unparalleled, and recent developments surrounding the crop have ignited fervent discussions.
While heirloom varieties currently constitute a minuscule fraction of domestic corn production, there is renewed optimism among farmers and advocates. The market value of heirloom corn, exemplified by Vargas’ success, demonstrates the potential for growth and increased production.
As the world grapples with the challenges of a changing climate, the significance of preserving traditional crops like heirloom corn becomes increasingly apparent, offering hope for a sustainable and resilient future.
Located in the bustling borough of Brooklyn, the esteemed chef Zack Wangeman and his wife, Diana, have diligently managed their thriving tortilla shop and restaurant, known as Sobre Masa, since the year 2021.
As purveyors of fine culinary delights, their establishment has become renowned not only for its delectable dishes, but also for its exceptional corn masa, which is sourced from heirloom Mexican corn cultivated on small family-owned farms.
Wangeman, a seasoned expert in Mexican cuisine at the age of 31, ardently believes that tortillas made from this revered corn variety have truly captivated the palates of many, emphasizing the distinct essence of a “country flavor” and the unmistakable essence of toasted corn that embodies the essence of Mexican gastronomy.
With an unwavering conviction, he asserts, “When you utilize hybrid corn, genetically modified corn, or any other alternative, it simply cannot replicate that nostalgic flavor.” Born and raised in the verdant southern state of Oaxaca, Wangeman’s love affair with this extraordinary corn was sparked by a fellow chef, whose resounding praises about the corn’s exceptional quality and taste intrigued him.
Ignited by curiosity, Wangeman promptly contacted Tamoa, a reputable company that has been dedicated to promoting heirloom corn cultivation since 2016, in an effort to facilitate its integration into foreign markets.
Tamoa’s efforts have paved the way for approximately 100 Mexican families residing in the central and southern regions of the country to showcase their prized heirloom corn to a global audience.
Although the precise volume of heirloom corn exports remains undisclosed, given that Mexico does not maintain comprehensive data on the matter, one thing remains abundantly clear: the surging number of tortillerias and restaurants across the United States investing in the procurement of this rare corn, as affirmed by Rafael Mier, the esteemed director of the Mexican Corn Tortilla Foundation.
Against the backdrop of Mexico’s colossal domestic demand, with an astonishing 60,000 tons of heirloom corn produced annually merely amounting to a minuscule fraction of the 23 million tons of white corn grown on an industrial scale to meet the needs of its inhabitants, as well as the substantial 16.5 million tons of yellow corn imported last year for industrial and animal feed purposes, the rise in the popularity of heirloom corn is undeniably a phenomenon that bears testament to its growing global appeal.
In Las Vegas, chef Mariana Alvarado has witnessed a significant shift in the culinary landscape over the past four years.
As a pioneer in sourcing native corn through Tamoa and Los Angeles-based Masienda, Alvarado has been able to elevate the quality of her dishes, specifically tortillas, tostadas, tamales, and the highly sought-after masa that she sells both in markets and online. Initially, she recalls that only a handful of chefs in the United States utilized native corn, but she estimates that this number has now doubled.
Alvarado’s dedication to providing “organic, clean, healthy food” has resonated with a diverse clientele, attracting Latinos and Mexican cuisine enthusiasts alike. She firmly believes that this movement towards authentic, heirloom strains of corn is not merely a passing fad but rather a growing trend that will continue to shape the culinary landscape.
The discerning palates of her U.S. customers have been captivated by the distinct aroma and taste of these native corn tortillas, which starkly contrast with the mass-produced alternatives found in supermarkets.
The recognition of a Kansas City, Mo., tortilleria that utilizes native Mexican corn winning the prestigious Outstanding Bakery prize at the James Beard awards, often referred to as the Oscars of the food world, further underscores the growing influence and impact of this movement.
Alvarado proudly asserts, “We’re making noise as tortilla-makers here in the United States, bringing native corn.”
Against the backdrop of a scorching sun and a sky adorned with a colossal sombrero, esteemed agronomist Gerardo Noriega found himself imparting final instructions to a diverse group of skilled technicians and researchers.
With utmost meticulousness, they diligently scattered hundreds of native corn seeds across a recently prepared field situated in Apizaco, Tlaxcala. Noriega, a scholar hailing from the esteemed Chapingo Autonomous University, utilized this expansive outdoor laboratory as a means to investigate the advantages of native corn varieties in comparison to their hybrid counterparts – those that are the result of crossbreeding.
Noriega’s project stood as just one among a series of nationwide initiatives aimed at cultivating organic agriculture amongst a multitude of small-scale farmers.
The objective of these collective endeavors was to entice more individuals to engage in the cultivation of crops that commanded higher prices, simultaneously safeguarding the survival of Mexico’s invaluable 59 native corn varieties.
With no less than twelve of these traditional crops cultivated in Tlaxcala, it comes as no surprise that approximately 232,000 acres of the total 355,000 acres dedicated to corn production in the region are embraced by these immaculate heirloom varieties.
Addressing the assembly before him, Noriega passionately expressed his conviction that by harnessing the genetic material – encompassing seeds, plants, and tissue – which has been expertly selected and refined throughout Mexico’s time-honored history, one can commence large-scale production of these corn varieties in all their vibrant glory.
Ranging from the resplendent yellows to mesmerizingly multicolored, and even extraordinary shades of reds, blues, pinks, and whites, the array of possibilities appears endless, all while steering clear of the need to delve into the realm of genetically-modified organisms – a realm that has proven to be a contentious subject for much appraisal and debate.
With a depth of conviction rarely encountered, Noriega elucidated that these native corn varieties possessed a truly exceptional yield, enabling them to persevere through a challenging 50-day-long dry spell. He confidently proclaimed, “There isn’t a hybrid strain that can endure such arduous conditions, my friends.”
Despite this, it remains a reality that a significant majority of Mexican farmers have long been acclimated to the practice of planting crossbred corn and resorting to chemical fertilizers and other synthetic substances in order to augment their yield.
In the scorching heat, under a sky adorned with a colossal sombrero, esteemed agronomist Gerardo Noriega stood among a diverse group of skilled technicians and researchers, imparting final instructions with utmost meticulousness.
They diligently scattered hundreds of native corn seeds across a field recently prepared in Apizaco, Tlaxcala. Noriega, a scholar from the prestigious Chapingo Autonomous University, utilized this expansive outdoor laboratory to investigate the advantages of native corn varieties compared to their hybrid counterparts, which are the result of crossbreeding.
Noriega’s project was just one of many nationwide initiatives aimed at promoting organic agriculture among small-scale farmers.
The objective of these collective endeavors was to encourage more individuals to cultivate crops that commanded higher prices, while also safeguarding the survival of Mexico’s invaluable 59 native corn varieties.
With Tlaxcala alone cultivating no less than twelve traditional crops, it’s no surprise that approximately 232,000 acres of the total 355,000 acres dedicated to corn production in the region are reserved for these immaculate heirloom varieties.
Addressing the assembly before him, Noriega passionately expressed his conviction in harnessing the genetic material, including seeds, plants, and tissue, that has been expertly selected and refined throughout Mexico’s time-honored history.
He believed that large-scale production of these vibrant corn varieties, ranging from resplendent yellows to mesmerizing multicolored hues of reds, blues, pinks, and whites, is possible without delving into the realm of genetically-modified organisms—a subject of contentious debate.
With an unwavering conviction, Noriega highlighted the remarkable resilience and exceptional yield of native corn varieties, emphasizing their ability to withstand a challenging 50-day-long dry spell. He confidently proclaimed, “There isn’t a hybrid strain that can endure such arduous conditions, my friends.”
However, the reality remains that a significant majority of Mexican farmers have long been accustomed to planting crossbred corn and relying on chemical fertilizers and synthetic substances to boost yield.