Clergy serve up unique treats and faith at the Minnesota State Fair, including meatball sundaes and pickle ice pops

On a hot and humid morning, the Minnesota State Fair commenced with the sun slowly ascending over Falcon Heights.

Amidst the growing crowd, Jeff Knott and his two daughters eagerly queued up outside the Hamline Church Dining Hall, ready to embark on a day filled with excitement and tradition.

As devoted Lutherans, the Knott family held a special affinity for this particular all-volunteer diner, operated by Methodists.

Its early opening time, diverse menu offerings, including their renowned “hamloaf” sandwich, and most notably, its philanthropic endeavors aligned perfectly with their values.

Jeff expressed his appreciation, stating, “They utilize their earnings to support mission work, which holds great significance for me.” The family, now seated at one of the bustling tables, reverently bowed their heads to say grace before indulging in their hearty breakfast.

The jovial atmosphere was momentarily interrupted by Elsie, the youngest daughter, who playfully remarked, “Although we can’t have deep-fried Oreos here, can we?”

The late-summer agricultural fairs, a cherished tradition nationwide, serve as a vibrant testament to the abundance of faith offerings.

These fairs, brimming with life and energy, bring together a diverse array of individuals, each with their own unique purpose.

From the young and passionate 4-H children, proudly showcasing their meticulously raised and groomed animals, to the ambitious political candidates, eagerly unveiling their visions and aspirations, these fairs serve as a captivating microcosm of society.

It is within this captivating atmosphere that the deep-rooted faith offerings flourish, transcending mere material offerings and encompassing a profound belief in the power of tradition, community, and progress.

Located in the heart of the Twin Cities, amidst the bustling atmosphere, stand two church dining halls that have faithfully served up hot meals for a remarkable combined total of 200 years.

However, these dining halls are not the only religious offerings at the fairgrounds. Every Sunday, fairgoers can partake in uplifting services, receive free Bibles or Qurans from various booths, and enjoy the soul-stirring performances of Christian bands on a stage adjacent to the thrilling rides.

With pre-pandemic attendance surpassing an astonishing two million people, in a state with a population of 5.7 million, the fair provides religious leaders with a truly unique opportunity.

It allows them to not only showcase their unwavering hospitality but also to preserve a rapidly vanishing slice of Americana in the face of an increasingly diverse crowd.

One such individual who understands the significance of this opportunity is Stephanie Engebrecht, a first-time volunteer at the dining hall and a dedicated staff member at Hamline United Methodist Church in St. Paul.

Engebrecht passionately expressed, “Service is my love language.” She firmly believes that when one invests their time and effort into something, an unbreakable bond is formed with the people around them.

As she refilled the coffee cups of a couple who had first visited the fair together on their honeymoon an astounding 62 years ago, Engebrecht’s words resonated with a profound sense of truth and purpose.

The dining halls at the Minnesota State Fair, one of which was established in 1897 and the other operated by Minneapolis’ Salem Lutheran Church, stand as the last remnants of a once-thriving scene that catered to farmers showcasing their finest crops, livestock, and crafts.

In the past, there was fierce competition among Twin Cities churches to secure a spot at the fair, with many churches being constructed using funds from the dining halls.

Even today, fair fundraising plays a crucial role in supporting homeless and food ministries in the surrounding neighborhoods.

Moreover, these dining halls serve as a testament to the disappearing agrarian ambiance, which Chris Gehrz, a history professor at the nearby Bethel University, describes as having a quasi-religious quality.

However, overt proselytizing has been strictly regulated since a landmark Supreme Court ruling in 1981, which upheld the fair’s right to restrict the distribution of religious literature by the Hare Krishna society.

Instead, the religious influence within the dining halls is subtle, with a few prayer signs adorning the walls and the leaders wearing name tags identifying them as pastors while serving delectable dishes such as Swedish meatballs or dill pickle lemonade paletas, a unique Midwestern twist on Mexican popsicles.

In the realm of Christian faith, there exists a spectrum of approaches when it comes to expressing one’s beliefs.

For some, like McClure, the practice of Christianity is so deeply ingrained in their daily lives that it becomes an inherent part of their identity.

They don’t feel the need to be overt about their faith because it is simply what they do, a natural extension of who they are.

However, there are occasions when individuals choose to wear their faith on their sleeves, quite literally. This was evident at the Hamline dining hall, where members of Methodist congregations, who advocate for LGBTQ inclusion amidst a larger division within the denomination, donned purple aprons as they volunteered.

This act of solidarity was a powerful statement, showcasing their commitment to their faith and their unwavering support for the LGBTQ community.

Meanwhile, just a stone’s throw away at the Crossroads Chapel, a different form of expression was taking place.

Volunteers, adorned in bright red vests labeled “prayer team,” offered their services to fairgoers. For an impressive seventy years, a network of evangelical churches has operated this unique establishment, which encompasses a Christian bookstore, a chapel, and even a tent.

Inside, an array of Bibles can be found, including Spanish-language versions and even a comic book-style edition specifically designed for children.

The impact of this mission cannot be overstated, as it has become the largest mission field in the state of Minnesota.

Terry Schuveiller, a board member at Crossroads, proudly shared that the prayer teams distributed a staggering 5,000 Bibles at last year’s fair.

This unwavering dedication to spreading the word of God is a testament to the enduring power of faith and the transformative effect it can have on individuals and communities alike.

The commitment to spreading the message of faith is the driving force behind the actions of Doug Peterson, a fellow board member and musician.

Recognizing the importance of staying connected to the ever-changing culture while remaining true to the teachings of God, Peterson took the initiative to set up an outdoor stage at the chapel, offering live entertainment to engage and captivate the fairgoers.

Drawing parallels to his own profession as a farmer, Peterson likened his efforts to planting different seeds at the fair, hoping to sow the seeds of faith in the hearts of those who attend.

However, it is not just Christianity that finds a place at the fair. The Building Blocks of Islam booth, though located inside the education building rather than amidst the thrill of the swing rides, attracted a steady stream of visitors.

Here, volunteers adorned in hijabs distributed free Qurans, aiming to combat the misinformation surrounding Islam.

Mashood Yunus, one of the founders of this group, emphasized the significance of the fair, as it brings together a multitude of Minnesotans, providing an ideal platform to dispel misconceptions.

With the upcoming election year further highlighting the need to prevent the spread of misinformation, Yunus stressed the importance of maintaining accurate knowledge about Islam.

Even in the face of occasional hostility, volunteers are trained to maintain a civil and respectful approach, ensuring that the fair remains a space for open dialogue.

Recognizing the diversity of faiths represented, the fair has allocated a spacious upstairs room where volunteers can perform their daily prayers, demonstrating the fair’s commitment to fostering an inclusive environment.

Catholic Mass is a significant event that takes place during both Sundays of the fair, attracting a large crowd of attendees, according to the Reverend Robert Fitzpatrick.

In a lighthearted manner, the retired priest refers to it as “Mass on a stick,” a playful reference to the fair’s iconic food offerings.

However, Mass serves a deeper purpose as well, acting as a tool for evangelization. In the past, the fair had a more substantial Catholic presence, even hosting Q&A sessions with priests.

Additionally, chaplains used to visit 4-H children on the day their animals were taken to market. Unfortunately, these organizations are currently facing challenges in finding enough volunteers, a problem that has become widespread for charities across the nation due to the aftermath of the COVID-19 pandemic.

The Reverend Mariah Furness Tollgaard of Hamline Church acknowledges that the idea of closing down has been contemplated due to the difficulties faced in serving approximately 30,000 meals at the fair.

To accomplish this, 600 volunteer shifts are required, which is a significant demand even for a congregation with 500 members.

Smaller and financially constrained organizations like Salem Lutheran face an even greater struggle. Despite the challenges, Salem’s volunteer coordinator, Rachel Carmichael, believes that providing the opportunity to serve is an act of faith, as she mentors a group of teenagers for whom the fair serves as a job training program.

Salem Lutheran is known for its Swedish egg coffee, a signature item that has been brewed by dedicated volunteer Jim Zieba for the past three decades.

Zieba, now in his mid-70s, starts brewing the coffee at 4:30 a.m. every day of the fair. On opening day alone, he had already prepared 48 pots, each serving 40 cups, before people began lining up for the unique lunch offering of a “Swedish meatball sundae.” Zieba expresses his commitment to the fair and his fellow volunteers, stating that he does not want to leave them in a difficult situation, as he is one of the few remaining everyday workers.

Bonnie Birnstengel, a fairgoer, makes it a point to have a cup of the famous egg coffee each year, even in the heat, though she admits it doesn’t quite match the taste of her mother-in-law’s brew.

For Lane Christianson, the Methodist dining hall is the first stop of his annual fair visit, and he wastes no time in enjoying the “holey hamloaf breakfast sandwich” just 15 minutes after the fair gates open.

Christianson describes the fair as a small slice of America, capturing the essence of the event’s cultural significance.

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